into the pill - Issue 3

Tamara’s Belgrade

   Tamara never takes the bus or the tram. She walks to wherever she goes. And so we follow her in endless routes about the city without a map. She is our guide. She is showing us the park and the fortress, the Cinema Academy, the bombed buildings, the open markets where we buy fancy junk, the branches of Alpha Bank sprouting all over the place- loans being the newfound way of life in the Balkans-, the coffee shops serving huge ice creams which she frowns down upon, the squares full of people drinking their beer in the heat.
    This afternoon we are going for a walk by the river. The riverboats have been fashioned into improvised bars with the addition of a few seats and a string of light bulbs, where you can have pizza or french fries. Dead water and reeds, smell of chlorophyll rotting, taste of rubber in the air. Across the river in the New Belgrade huge apartment blocks rise like rotten teeth on the horizon. The sun is setting, heat turns from a harness to a vail, it won’t let you breathe. Nevertheless, a strange feeling of freedom inside our bodies after hours of walking, we are lost in the utopia of an unknown city we can discover anything.
     The river banks swerving away are full of houses. They are one room constructions, made of plywood, tinplates, plastic sheets, fronting onto tiny yards that overlook the river. And everywhere there are people who drink their beer, or are lost in daydreams in front of a wrecked table, they strive, they mend things, they sing or talk loudly, manifesting this kind of improvised life which is the extension of their “summer house”. We can’t ... read more

(Katerina Iliopoulou)

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February 2007